Newsletter #18: Microsoft Remakes Multimedia
When we say Microsoft Vista has some glitz, it's not just marketing; the newest version of Windows sports some revamped video and audio functions designed to promote the digital arts.
We got a hint of the new multimedia even before Vista shipped, as the updated Windows Media Player, and that first look offers a good introduction.
Learn the New Tune
What's new in Windows Media Center?
It has the same basic features as before, but it sports a redesigned menu system, mainly so you can control it from an Xbox 360 over your home network.
Has Windows Media Player changed?
A new interface gives you additional ways to organize and browse your media collection.
For example, you can access your music by an album cover view. Vista's search feature is integrated into Windows Media Player, so you can find media more easily, too. And Windows Media Player includes tie-ins to URGE, a for-pay music service that Microsoft launched with MTV.
Hardware Concerns
Will Vista play HD-DVDs and Blu-ray discs?
Not without third-party software. Though Vista ships with the infrastructure necessary to support HD-DVD--drivers, file system, codecs, and other components--you'll need additional dedicated software to play an HD-DVD video, and the OS has no native support for Blu-ray Disc.
Because of Digital Rights Management for prerecorded high-definition media, will I need to buy a new monitor to play premium high-def content?
You might, regardless of whether you're running Vista or Windows XP. For a PC to send next-generation video content to a display, the display must support HDCP--and while most HDTVs do support this copy-protection technology, many older monitors that support high-def resolutions do not.
http://www.ecoustics.com/pcw/howto/131951
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Do-It-Yourself Surveillance Protects Home or Business
Is that summer downpour flooding your basement? Did Rover get into the garbage again? Is your 50-inch flat-panel TV still in place? Find out from anywhere by using your PC to create an affordable home surveillance system that you can access over the Internet, or even over your cell phone. A professionally installed surveillance system costs at least $2000, but you can set up an uncomplicated USB-connected Webcam such as Logitech's QuickCam Chat for $30, a wireless camera that can be placed almost anywhere for less than $200, or a complete PC-based monitoring system for under $1000.
A basic surveillance system requires three things: a camera; motion-sensing software to activate the camera and to store its video or still images; and software to send the images over the Internet. Adding a wired or wireless network expands your home-surveillance capabilities.
If you're on a tight budget or you don't want to deal with installing remote cameras, an inexpensive Webcam can serve as a bare-bones surveillance device. Many Webcams come with motion-sensing and remote-access software, but paying extra for a full-featured program may be worthwhile, especially if you want to use several Webcams of different makes (for two software recommendations, see " Cameras With Swivel").
The biggest drawback of a Webcam, of course, is that it's tethered by a USB cable to your PC. Powered USB hubs and USB active repeater cables allow you to double or triple USB's 5-meter length limit. Or you can wait for the convenience of wireless USB products, which should arrive soon. In fact, Belkin's CableFree wireless USB hub may be available by the time you read this.
Click to see a full-size image.
IP cameras, on the other hand, can be placed anywhere there's a network connection, making them ideal for homes or offices that already have a wireless network. Since they connect directly to your router rather than through your PC, you don't need to keep the machine on to view the camera's image in a browser. Prices for cameras with such features as night vision, remote-control positioning (pan-and-tilt controls, for instance), and zoom lenses can quickly escalate past $1000, but less expensive wireless cameras like D-Link's DCS-5300G (about $500 online), Linksys's Compact Wireless G Internet Video Camera (about $100 online) and 4XEM's WLPTG Wireless Pan/Tilt IP Network Camera (about $390 online) have many of these extra features.
The pan-and-tilt capability of the 4XEM and D-Link units let me monitor my living room, kitchen, and yard (through a window) with one camera whose view I controlled remotely, rather than having to use two or three stationary cameras. If you have pets, attach a speaker to let them hear your voice from afar.
I installed three different wireless cameras on my wireless network, and though I struggled with the setup, after 5 hours I was monitoring my dog's water bowl, my front door, and my vegetable garden from my cousin's house across town.
Of course, your network camera will only be as useful as the surveillance software that runs it. If the software bundled with your camera is difficult to use, has too limited a set of features, or is impossible to install, you can ditch it and try one of the many third-party alternatives, such as DeskShare's $50 WebCam Monitor or iCode's $79 i-Catcher Sentry. I found both apps much easier to configure and more useful than the programs that came with several of the cameras I tried out.
Before you buy a camera-controller app, make sure its codec works with your cameras. IP cameras typically support either the MJPEG or the MPEG-4 codec, though some newer cameras support both. MPEG-4 cameras produce smaller video files, but at lower resolutions than MJPEG.
Here answers to some common questions about remote surveillance cameras.
How do I power a remote camera? If you want to place a camera somewhere without easy access to an electrical outlet, look for a camera that supports Power over Ethernet (PoE). PoE cameras can draw power from the CAT5 ethernet cable used to transmit data, eliminating the need for a separate power line. Some cameras feature built-in PoE support, while others, such as D-Link's $45 DWL-P200, require a PoE adapter.
What else can I monitor? If you need more than audio or visual confirmation that your home or business is safe and sound, Digi's Watchport Sensors monitor temperature, moisture, and motion. Each sensor connects via USB to a PC and comes with software that sends alerts via e-mail or cell phone. The sensors cost between $130 and $180 online.
Alternatively, Motorola's Homesight Wireless Easy Starter Kit HMEZ2000 monitoring system offers a turnkey home security system with modules for wireless cameras, window and door monitors, and wireless (but not Wi-Fi) temperature and moisture sensors. The starter kit costs about $250. Water, temperature, and window/door sensors cost between $40 and $80 each.
Where do I go for help? Don't waste too much time with a troublesome installation. Call tech support; 4XEM's excellent support line made my setup a breeze, while an hour with a D-Link support tech convinced me to try WebCam Monitor instead of sticking with D-Link's software. My most important lesson: If one quick call to tech support doesn't solve your problem, return your camera for one from a different manufacturer.
Setting up an external link to the Internet can be challenging on any camera. Check out the overview at networkcamerareviews.com and find several useful tips for installing and running an IP camera.
If you print something every day, you probably waste a little something every day as well. TheGreenPrint utility lets you cut down on wasted paper and ink by making it fast and easy to identify and delete unwanted pages, text, or graphics in print jobs. GreenPrint installs as a printer, so if you designate it as your default, it automatically pops up each time you print. At $35 (with a free 14-day trial), the program certainly isn't cheap--but given the price of ink and paper, it can pay for itself pretty quickly.
http://www.ecoustics.com/pcw/howto/131813
A basic surveillance system requires three things: a camera; motion-sensing software to activate the camera and to store its video or still images; and software to send the images over the Internet. Adding a wired or wireless network expands your home-surveillance capabilities.
If you're on a tight budget or you don't want to deal with installing remote cameras, an inexpensive Webcam can serve as a bare-bones surveillance device. Many Webcams come with motion-sensing and remote-access software, but paying extra for a full-featured program may be worthwhile, especially if you want to use several Webcams of different makes (for two software recommendations, see " Cameras With Swivel").
The biggest drawback of a Webcam, of course, is that it's tethered by a USB cable to your PC. Powered USB hubs and USB active repeater cables allow you to double or triple USB's 5-meter length limit. Or you can wait for the convenience of wireless USB products, which should arrive soon. In fact, Belkin's CableFree wireless USB hub may be available by the time you read this.
Click to see a full-size image.
IP cameras, on the other hand, can be placed anywhere there's a network connection, making them ideal for homes or offices that already have a wireless network. Since they connect directly to your router rather than through your PC, you don't need to keep the machine on to view the camera's image in a browser. Prices for cameras with such features as night vision, remote-control positioning (pan-and-tilt controls, for instance), and zoom lenses can quickly escalate past $1000, but less expensive wireless cameras like D-Link's DCS-5300G (about $500 online), Linksys's Compact Wireless G Internet Video Camera (about $100 online) and 4XEM's WLPTG Wireless Pan/Tilt IP Network Camera (about $390 online) have many of these extra features.
The pan-and-tilt capability of the 4XEM and D-Link units let me monitor my living room, kitchen, and yard (through a window) with one camera whose view I controlled remotely, rather than having to use two or three stationary cameras. If you have pets, attach a speaker to let them hear your voice from afar.
I installed three different wireless cameras on my wireless network, and though I struggled with the setup, after 5 hours I was monitoring my dog's water bowl, my front door, and my vegetable garden from my cousin's house across town.
Of course, your network camera will only be as useful as the surveillance software that runs it. If the software bundled with your camera is difficult to use, has too limited a set of features, or is impossible to install, you can ditch it and try one of the many third-party alternatives, such as DeskShare's $50 WebCam Monitor or iCode's $79 i-Catcher Sentry. I found both apps much easier to configure and more useful than the programs that came with several of the cameras I tried out.
Before you buy a camera-controller app, make sure its codec works with your cameras. IP cameras typically support either the MJPEG or the MPEG-4 codec, though some newer cameras support both. MPEG-4 cameras produce smaller video files, but at lower resolutions than MJPEG.
Here answers to some common questions about remote surveillance cameras.
How do I power a remote camera? If you want to place a camera somewhere without easy access to an electrical outlet, look for a camera that supports Power over Ethernet (PoE). PoE cameras can draw power from the CAT5 ethernet cable used to transmit data, eliminating the need for a separate power line. Some cameras feature built-in PoE support, while others, such as D-Link's $45 DWL-P200, require a PoE adapter.
What else can I monitor? If you need more than audio or visual confirmation that your home or business is safe and sound, Digi's Watchport Sensors monitor temperature, moisture, and motion. Each sensor connects via USB to a PC and comes with software that sends alerts via e-mail or cell phone. The sensors cost between $130 and $180 online.
Alternatively, Motorola's Homesight Wireless Easy Starter Kit HMEZ2000 monitoring system offers a turnkey home security system with modules for wireless cameras, window and door monitors, and wireless (but not Wi-Fi) temperature and moisture sensors. The starter kit costs about $250. Water, temperature, and window/door sensors cost between $40 and $80 each.
Where do I go for help? Don't waste too much time with a troublesome installation. Call tech support; 4XEM's excellent support line made my setup a breeze, while an hour with a D-Link support tech convinced me to try WebCam Monitor instead of sticking with D-Link's software. My most important lesson: If one quick call to tech support doesn't solve your problem, return your camera for one from a different manufacturer.
Setting up an external link to the Internet can be challenging on any camera. Check out the overview at networkcamerareviews.com and find several useful tips for installing and running an IP camera.
If you print something every day, you probably waste a little something every day as well. TheGreenPrint utility lets you cut down on wasted paper and ink by making it fast and easy to identify and delete unwanted pages, text, or graphics in print jobs. GreenPrint installs as a printer, so if you designate it as your default, it automatically pops up each time you print. At $35 (with a free 14-day trial), the program certainly isn't cheap--but given the price of ink and paper, it can pay for itself pretty quickly.
http://www.ecoustics.com/pcw/howto/131813
Ten Things You Need to Know About 1080p
New models of consumer electronics products almost change with the seasons: you've finally understood why you need a High Definition Television (HDTV) when along comes yet another electronic upgrade. As exciting as these developments are, they may also provoke vague feelings of discontent. This can occur if some know-it-all points out that your HD display is only 720p. When this happened to me recently, I countered with the fact that I was viewing HDTV while this person was still in nursery school. (Japan developed an analog version of HDTV in the 1980s, which I saw on press trips to Japan and later viewed in Canada when TV broadcasters there considered adopting the Japanese HDTV system for the future needs of Canadian TV broadcasting. It was ultimately rejected.)
hdtv
As many readers are aware, the "1080p" tide has been rising for at least a year and this spring it seems to have reached a new high-water mark, in part stimulated by the market appearance of new high-definition DVD players: HD-DVD and Blu-ray, recorded and studio mastered in 1080p. These two formats are not compatible (except for LG's HD-DVD/Blu-ray combo player, and a new combo unit due from Samsung), however they will play your existing DVDs.
Resisting the marketing juggernaut is never easy (we really know how to consume in the 21st century) so in the spirit of both welcoming and explaining 1080p, here are some guidelines to help you navigate the claims and counter claims:
1. What is it? "1080p" stands for 1080 progressive. It means that a video display or video source has the capability to display a high-definition video image made up of 1080 horizontal "lines" progressively scanned from the top to the bottom of the screen. Your old analog CRT set yielded about 330 lines. A standard DVD player delivers 480 lines. In techie terms, a 1080p high-definition set will display an image comprised of 1920 x 1080 pixels, or approximately 2 million pixels (a pixel is a picture element) versus a 720p image, which consists of 1280 x 720 pixels, or about 921,600 pixels. Other things being equal, the more pixels there are in an image, the greater the potential detail and clarity.
"1080p" is a refinement of HD video technology that has evolved from earlier HD displays known as 720p or 1080i (i for interlaced). The latter (720p or 1080i) are the existing standards for HD images broadcast over the air or by cable or satellite. Broadcast 1080p images are not available -- yet. But they may be some years down the road.
2. If you own or buy a new 1080p set, it will convert or upscale incoming 720p or 1080i images to 1080p. The upscaled images may look smoother and more nuanced, clearer if you will, than those viewed on a 720p set.
3. If you already own an HD set that is several years old, it will likely be a 720p model (rarely 1080i unless it's a CRT HD set), so there is no point in getting video sources that deliver a 1080p image because your video device can't display the extra pixels, unless of course you decide to replace your 720p or 1080i HDTV with a 1080p HDTV.
4. If you are deliberating about buying a new 1080p large screen display, then it will let you do two things: either sit closer to the screen than you otherwise could if you had a 720p display, or, if you decide to go for a 1080p front projector, then you could project a considerably bigger screen image that would look as clear and sharp as a 720p image viewed from twice as far back.
For very large TV displays -- 65 inches diagonal, say, or projected images of 96 or 108 inches, you would see more detail from viewing distances of 5, 8, or 9 feet, respectively. Note that 9 feet is currently the average viewing distance for TV in most homes. On the other hand, because a 1080p set has almost twice as many pixels as a 720p display, subtleties and gradations of color and texture should be better, and visible.
5. Some new AV receivers and DVD players have built-in video up-conversion and scaling to 1080p. The upconversion to 1080p done in an AV receiver is only a convenience, and may not be executed as well as the conversion performed internally in your 1080p video display or projector.
6. Note that any 1080p display or 1080p projector will, on its own, upconvert any incoming standard or high-definition video source connected to it to 1080p. You do not need to purchase an outboard scaler in an AV receiver to perform that function. Your 1080p set will do that automatically because it must in order to display the image and fill all the pixels. (Techies call the latter the set’s "native resolution" -- 1080p.)
7. You should also note that upconversion (scaling) to 1080p of standard definition (SD) video sources like regular DVDs or standard TV broadcasts will not make them look like a true HD image (720p or 1080i). They may appear smoother to the eye, but detail cannot be added by up-conversion.
8. The only sources currently available for true 1080p images are HD-DVD and Blu-ray discs, and those must be delivered from an HD-DVD or Blu-ray disc player via HDMI cables. HDMI connections carry video images as well as standard images -- and 1080p -- in digital form, whereas component video cables are analog and carry 720p or 1080i HD images. While component video cables are technically able to pass 1080p images, Hollywood studios do not permit 1080p discs to be made without the anti-piracy digital handshake code that must be passed via HDMI cables. HD-DVD or Blu-ray players will only output 1080p signals over HDMI connections.
9. Finally, if you use a 50-inch to 60-inch diagonal HD display, and plan on sitting farther than 10 feet away from it, the 1080p display may not look any clearer than a 720p display would at that distance, however you may perceive a slightly smoother and more satisfying picture from the 1080p set. Still, we are talking subtleties here. Only if you sit 5 feet or so from a 60-inch 1080p screen will the increased clarity of 1080p be immediately apparent.
10. If you are about to purchase an HD set, then getting a 1080p display will "future-proof" your system because it will display the maximum picture resolution from HD-DVD or Blu-ray discs no matter which format "wins", and it will be capable of displaying the highest clarity possible for almost any new video delivery system coming down the pipe. Of course, as we discussed earlier, there is always something else on the horizon, including the huge palette of colors obtainable with Deep Color, which new 1080p sets will be able to access through the latest version of HDMI 1.3 connections this fall.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/356979.html
hdtv
As many readers are aware, the "1080p" tide has been rising for at least a year and this spring it seems to have reached a new high-water mark, in part stimulated by the market appearance of new high-definition DVD players: HD-DVD and Blu-ray, recorded and studio mastered in 1080p. These two formats are not compatible (except for LG's HD-DVD/Blu-ray combo player, and a new combo unit due from Samsung), however they will play your existing DVDs.
Resisting the marketing juggernaut is never easy (we really know how to consume in the 21st century) so in the spirit of both welcoming and explaining 1080p, here are some guidelines to help you navigate the claims and counter claims:
1. What is it? "1080p" stands for 1080 progressive. It means that a video display or video source has the capability to display a high-definition video image made up of 1080 horizontal "lines" progressively scanned from the top to the bottom of the screen. Your old analog CRT set yielded about 330 lines. A standard DVD player delivers 480 lines. In techie terms, a 1080p high-definition set will display an image comprised of 1920 x 1080 pixels, or approximately 2 million pixels (a pixel is a picture element) versus a 720p image, which consists of 1280 x 720 pixels, or about 921,600 pixels. Other things being equal, the more pixels there are in an image, the greater the potential detail and clarity.
"1080p" is a refinement of HD video technology that has evolved from earlier HD displays known as 720p or 1080i (i for interlaced). The latter (720p or 1080i) are the existing standards for HD images broadcast over the air or by cable or satellite. Broadcast 1080p images are not available -- yet. But they may be some years down the road.
2. If you own or buy a new 1080p set, it will convert or upscale incoming 720p or 1080i images to 1080p. The upscaled images may look smoother and more nuanced, clearer if you will, than those viewed on a 720p set.
3. If you already own an HD set that is several years old, it will likely be a 720p model (rarely 1080i unless it's a CRT HD set), so there is no point in getting video sources that deliver a 1080p image because your video device can't display the extra pixels, unless of course you decide to replace your 720p or 1080i HDTV with a 1080p HDTV.
4. If you are deliberating about buying a new 1080p large screen display, then it will let you do two things: either sit closer to the screen than you otherwise could if you had a 720p display, or, if you decide to go for a 1080p front projector, then you could project a considerably bigger screen image that would look as clear and sharp as a 720p image viewed from twice as far back.
For very large TV displays -- 65 inches diagonal, say, or projected images of 96 or 108 inches, you would see more detail from viewing distances of 5, 8, or 9 feet, respectively. Note that 9 feet is currently the average viewing distance for TV in most homes. On the other hand, because a 1080p set has almost twice as many pixels as a 720p display, subtleties and gradations of color and texture should be better, and visible.
5. Some new AV receivers and DVD players have built-in video up-conversion and scaling to 1080p. The upconversion to 1080p done in an AV receiver is only a convenience, and may not be executed as well as the conversion performed internally in your 1080p video display or projector.
6. Note that any 1080p display or 1080p projector will, on its own, upconvert any incoming standard or high-definition video source connected to it to 1080p. You do not need to purchase an outboard scaler in an AV receiver to perform that function. Your 1080p set will do that automatically because it must in order to display the image and fill all the pixels. (Techies call the latter the set’s "native resolution" -- 1080p.)
7. You should also note that upconversion (scaling) to 1080p of standard definition (SD) video sources like regular DVDs or standard TV broadcasts will not make them look like a true HD image (720p or 1080i). They may appear smoother to the eye, but detail cannot be added by up-conversion.
8. The only sources currently available for true 1080p images are HD-DVD and Blu-ray discs, and those must be delivered from an HD-DVD or Blu-ray disc player via HDMI cables. HDMI connections carry video images as well as standard images -- and 1080p -- in digital form, whereas component video cables are analog and carry 720p or 1080i HD images. While component video cables are technically able to pass 1080p images, Hollywood studios do not permit 1080p discs to be made without the anti-piracy digital handshake code that must be passed via HDMI cables. HD-DVD or Blu-ray players will only output 1080p signals over HDMI connections.
9. Finally, if you use a 50-inch to 60-inch diagonal HD display, and plan on sitting farther than 10 feet away from it, the 1080p display may not look any clearer than a 720p display would at that distance, however you may perceive a slightly smoother and more satisfying picture from the 1080p set. Still, we are talking subtleties here. Only if you sit 5 feet or so from a 60-inch 1080p screen will the increased clarity of 1080p be immediately apparent.
10. If you are about to purchase an HD set, then getting a 1080p display will "future-proof" your system because it will display the maximum picture resolution from HD-DVD or Blu-ray discs no matter which format "wins", and it will be capable of displaying the highest clarity possible for almost any new video delivery system coming down the pipe. Of course, as we discussed earlier, there is always something else on the horizon, including the huge palette of colors obtainable with Deep Color, which new 1080p sets will be able to access through the latest version of HDMI 1.3 connections this fall.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/356979.html
Stunning Photos With High Dynamic Range, Part 2
Use specialized software to combine images for a great effect.
If you've ever photographed an idyllic landscape and ended up with a washed-out sky and dark, underexposed blobs instead of shadows, you'll understand why photographers are falling in love with High Dynamic Range photography. HDR allows you to capture far more color, brightness, and contrast information in photos than has been possible.
Last week we talked about how to capture the series of photos that would become part of our HDR masterpiece.
Combining the Images
Shooting the series was half the battle; now it's time to combine the photos into a single image that takes all the best parts of each.
You've got a wide choice of programs to create HDR photos. Adobe Photoshop CS2, for example, has an HDR feature. So does Ulead PhotoImpact. There are also some stand-alone HDR utilities out there, like Photogenics HDR and Photomatix Pro.
I downloaded the free trial version of Photomatix Pro. There's no time limit on how long you can use the trial version, but it inscribes a watermark across each of your photos unless you pay $99 for the license.
Using Photomatix Pro
To use the program, drag your set of bracketed photos into the program window and wait for them to display. If you haven't made any HDR photos of your own yet, here are some sample source images you can use (I took these photos on a tripod in front of my house near dusk):
Choose HDR, Generate from the menu and click OK when the program asks if you want to use the open images.
In the next dialog box, select the check box to align the source images--this lines up your photos in case you were handholding the camera or the tripod moved a bit between shots--and choose the default "standard tone curve." Click OK.
After some processing time, you'll get a result. It probably won't look very good, but don't worry: The composite image holds more contrast information than a typical computer display is capable of showing. The final step is to optimize the image for the screen. Choose HDR, Tone Mapping from the menu.
On this final screen, you can tweak many aspects of the photo, such as the white and black levels, the color saturation, and contrast levels. Feel free to experiment with the settings.
Click for full image.
You'll probably find that often you can just click OK to accept the defaults; the results will look impressive without much tweaking. I used a series of five photos for my HDR image, which appears on the right.
HDR isn't perfect. Because it relies on a series of photos, it's not appropriate for action photography--or, in fact, photos in which pretty much anything moves at all. It requires meticulous setup, a tripod, enough patience to configure a series of bracketed images--and, of course, the software to glue it all together at the end. But if you can deal with those shortcomings, you can make some photos that are nothing short of stunning.
Hot Pic of the Week
Get published, get famous! Each week, we select our favorite reader-submitted photo based on creativity, originality, and technique. Every month, the best of the weekly winners gets a prize valued at between $15 and $50.
Here's how to enter: Send us your photograph in JPEG format, at a resolution no higher than 640 by 480 pixels. Entries at higher resolutions will be immediately disqualified. If necessary, use an image editing program to reduce the file size of your image before e-mailing it to us. Include the title of your photo along with a short description and how you photographed it. Don't forget to send your name, e-mail address, and postal address. Before entering, please read the full description of the contest rules and regulations.
Click for full image.
This Week's Hot Pic: "Summer Snack," by Patrick Marcigliano, Cumming, Georgia
Patrick says: "I took this shot of my daughter at a beach house after she had just come in from the beach to eat some lunch. She was hopping up and down at the table's edge, playing hide and seek with me. I just happened to catch her when she paused for just a second to see what I would do."
http://www.ecoustics.com/pcw/howto/131612
If you've ever photographed an idyllic landscape and ended up with a washed-out sky and dark, underexposed blobs instead of shadows, you'll understand why photographers are falling in love with High Dynamic Range photography. HDR allows you to capture far more color, brightness, and contrast information in photos than has been possible.
Last week we talked about how to capture the series of photos that would become part of our HDR masterpiece.
Combining the Images
Shooting the series was half the battle; now it's time to combine the photos into a single image that takes all the best parts of each.
You've got a wide choice of programs to create HDR photos. Adobe Photoshop CS2, for example, has an HDR feature. So does Ulead PhotoImpact. There are also some stand-alone HDR utilities out there, like Photogenics HDR and Photomatix Pro.
I downloaded the free trial version of Photomatix Pro. There's no time limit on how long you can use the trial version, but it inscribes a watermark across each of your photos unless you pay $99 for the license.
Using Photomatix Pro
To use the program, drag your set of bracketed photos into the program window and wait for them to display. If you haven't made any HDR photos of your own yet, here are some sample source images you can use (I took these photos on a tripod in front of my house near dusk):
Choose HDR, Generate from the menu and click OK when the program asks if you want to use the open images.
In the next dialog box, select the check box to align the source images--this lines up your photos in case you were handholding the camera or the tripod moved a bit between shots--and choose the default "standard tone curve." Click OK.
After some processing time, you'll get a result. It probably won't look very good, but don't worry: The composite image holds more contrast information than a typical computer display is capable of showing. The final step is to optimize the image for the screen. Choose HDR, Tone Mapping from the menu.
On this final screen, you can tweak many aspects of the photo, such as the white and black levels, the color saturation, and contrast levels. Feel free to experiment with the settings.
Click for full image.
You'll probably find that often you can just click OK to accept the defaults; the results will look impressive without much tweaking. I used a series of five photos for my HDR image, which appears on the right.
HDR isn't perfect. Because it relies on a series of photos, it's not appropriate for action photography--or, in fact, photos in which pretty much anything moves at all. It requires meticulous setup, a tripod, enough patience to configure a series of bracketed images--and, of course, the software to glue it all together at the end. But if you can deal with those shortcomings, you can make some photos that are nothing short of stunning.
Hot Pic of the Week
Get published, get famous! Each week, we select our favorite reader-submitted photo based on creativity, originality, and technique. Every month, the best of the weekly winners gets a prize valued at between $15 and $50.
Here's how to enter: Send us your photograph in JPEG format, at a resolution no higher than 640 by 480 pixels. Entries at higher resolutions will be immediately disqualified. If necessary, use an image editing program to reduce the file size of your image before e-mailing it to us. Include the title of your photo along with a short description and how you photographed it. Don't forget to send your name, e-mail address, and postal address. Before entering, please read the full description of the contest rules and regulations.
Click for full image.
This Week's Hot Pic: "Summer Snack," by Patrick Marcigliano, Cumming, Georgia
Patrick says: "I took this shot of my daughter at a beach house after she had just come in from the beach to eat some lunch. She was hopping up and down at the table's edge, playing hide and seek with me. I just happened to catch her when she paused for just a second to see what I would do."
http://www.ecoustics.com/pcw/howto/131612
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