Systems: $4000 stereo

This month AudioEnz has asked five dealers to put together a system with two constraints; the price should be around $4000 and the system should be designed to work in a small room. Here's what ur dealers came up with:

Totally Wired, Dunedin

Quad CDP-2 CD player

Quad 11L Active loudspeaker

It took about 2 seconds to decide what to choose for the $4k system challenge. Which means we are either incredibly narrow-minded or may just have found something that actually stands out... But first let’s talk about speakers.

Going ‘active’ has always been regarded as the ultimate in dynamic (ie box) speaker performance. Why do we want to go down the active track anyway? First off, there is always some compromise involved in matching amps to speakers – having the amps specifically designed to match would have to sound better (and also be safer). Next we consider the crossover – all conventional speakers have these and this is another area of compromise – by their very nature they consume an amps power and are nowhere near as accurate as you’d like to think - if you could place the crossover before the amplifiers a whole lot of problems simply go away.

There is an arena where active speakers are considered the norm and that is within recording studios – especially for monitoring. In this setting you have an absolute need for accuracy.

If you have two outwardly identical speakers, one conventional and driven by a competent power amplifier and one active, the latter will sound considerably better – more dynamic, detailed and extended. Up until now this really wasn’t a comparison you could readily make. And any active options were, on the face of it, quite expensive.

The new Quad 11L and 12L Active speakers ($1400 and $1700 a pair) stand this equation on its head. Featuring Quad’s unique ‘current dumping’ topology with 40 watts for the treble plus 60 for the bass in each speaker. Add balanced and RCA inputs, protection and level control to the back panel and you have something rather more sophisticated flexible than your average speaker.

Taking the elegance of the active speakers to the logical conclusion, we look to Quads CDP-2 upsampling CD player ($2000) as a source – the trick here being that it features a full range volume control. That isn’t the end of this particular story – the Quad CDP2 also has an array of digital inputs with allow you to plug in other components (DVD players, Set top boxes and probably the next generation of iPod) and benefit from the slick upsampling circuitry that makes the CDP2 sound as it does.

So there you have it – a fully functional system from Quad with just a CD player and speakers.

In 2005 Michael Wong had some fairly positive things to say about the Quad CDP based system at $5700. Today for just $3400 we can do a considerably better job with the CDP-2 and 11L actives. We’ve undershot the arbitrary $4k by a good margin – this leaves plenty for interconnecting cables (rather than conventional speaker cables) and stands if required.

While it would have been just as easy to take a more conventional route – for instance the Rotel RCD06/RA05 amp pairing with the Image Studio Reference would be my first pick – this minimalistic and uncompromising approach from Quad allows us to not only have a CD player that would normally not feature in a system at this price level, but to also experience the accuracy and detail that comes with active speaker operation.

In the future you may well want more analogue inputs and control. The Quad 99 preamplifier ($1600) would be a comprehensively featured and logical choice but the simplicity of Perreaux’s new SXP2 passive preamplifier ($700) could also appeal.

Your final question might be 11L active or 12L active? Simple answer – get the 12Ls if you can, but if you are pushing your budget, the 11Ls will never let you down.—John Ransley

Quad CDP-2 CD player	$2000
Quad 11L active loudspeakers	$1400
Total	$3400

The Listening Post, Christchurch

Audiolab 8000CD CD player

Audiolab 8000S amplifier

When it comes to smaller rooms, it is important to find the right balance of size and quality. Floorstanding speakers can be imposing in an small lounge, not only because of their physical size, but also because the sound can quickly become overwhelming. Bass certainly needs to be handled carefully so as not to become boomy at certain frequencies, but non-existent at others.

To this end, I have gone with Paradigm's new Mini Monitor bookshelf speakers. These are just the right size, both in stature and sound. They are clear and even in tone, yet have no issues when pushed hard. The Mini Monitors image well, have resolutely solid cabinets, and their own modern/ retro styling which suits a diverse range of lounges.

To drive these, team up the Audiolab 8000CD CD player with the 8000S amplifier. The 8000CD has real definition in the top end, and is flexible enough to handle most musical tastes. The hitherto unheard triangle at the back of the orchestra becomes obvious - it was there all along! Drum and bass tracks benefit from the crispness on offer, and the presentation of acoustic music is impressive.

The Audiolab 8000S is the next piece in the puzzle. At 60 Watts RMS per channel, it has what it takes to bathe a small room in audio glory. The 8000S offers superb control over the Mini Monitors. Simplicity is the key here: no tone controls, just volume, source selection and a balanced and direct response. The same remote that operates the amp also operates the CD player, so that you only need one remote - effectively, you have one spare.

Capping this system off are the WireWorld Equinox interconnects, and QED Silver Anniversary XT speaker cable. These offer both excellent value for money and a step up from entry level cables, giving smooth results.—J. Lewars

Audiolab 8000CD CD Player	$1299
Audiolab 8000S integrated amp	$1299
Paradigm Mini Monitor bookshelf speakers	$899
WireWorld Equinox Interconnects 0.5m	$299
QED Silver Anniversary XT, 5m @$20/m	$100
QED Banana plugs x 8	$80
Total	$3976

The Real Music Company, Wellington

Rega Apollo CD player

Rega Brio amplifier

Rega R3 loudspeakers

One of the main features we search for on building an audio system to any budget is system symmetry. That is the relationship between each box should always be a happy one, without one component being either way out of its companions class or just not the best spend of a given budget.

Given the brief for this short article is to provide a complete system for around the $4,000 mark suitable for a small room, we have a marvellous opportunity to provide a complete system from a supplier that has taken care of the matching questions for us if they can provide all three components, the source, the amplifier and the speakers. One such company is Rega Research Ltd.

Rega have carved their very successful niche in the UK and world market by refusing to accept audio theories without doing the research from the ground up themselves and continuing to take nothing for granted, stopping to ask ‘Why?’ at each step. This has lead to their now famous Rega Planar turntables, and a full range of electronics and speakers.

Basing any system around the Rega Apollo CD player ($1,650) is a great start. Following the source first principle we are yet to find a CD player under the Naim CD5i level that performs at anything like the level of musicality the Apollo can bring to your collection. Information is apparent in abundance but it is always knitted together in a highly involving manner. Equals more fun.

Partner this with another Rega bargain, the no-frills Rega Brio 3 integrated amplifier, and you at once have an assured combination that punches way above its price level. The Brio being an ideal amplifier for those where music is the priority over features. By this I mean it has no remote, no A-B speaker switching, no tone controls, so is completely stripped down to maximise sound for the given budget. This means you do not have to pay for features that you may never use. Being Rega there is also an excellent phono stage included so a future additional source will be hassle free. Rega also offer the ability to add a headphone amplifier if desired.

Speakers for a small room often have people thinking bookshelf of stand mounted small box designs. To optimise a system these types of speakers should be placed on good quality stands that means the both additional expense and the placement of the speakers on the floor. The Rega R1 at $895 works very well in these situations. The floor standing Rega R3 at $1,575 a pair provides an immediate alternative that allows positioning against a rear wall and the benefits of introducing another mid-bass driver and alleviating the need for stand purchasing. Options like these are why we recommend a demonstration (as always) so you can be sure it will work for you.

Tidy every thing up with a Chord Co Cobra 3 interconnect and Chord Carnival speaker wire and years of listening pleasure await.—Allan MacFarlane

Rega Apollo CD player	$1650
Rega Brio 3 amplifier	$1075
Rega R3	$1575
Chord Co Cobra 3	$165
Chord Carnival 5m @$8/m	$40
Total	$4505

Eastern Hi-Fi, Newmarket, Auckland

Denon DCD-700 CD player

Denon PMA-700 amplifier

Project Debut 3 turntable

Kef iQ3

We all have our favourites when it comes to putting a system together for someone, and of course one man’s trash is another’s treasure, but there are a few staple products that can always be counted on to produce great results.

One of these is the Kef iQ3 bookshelf speaker, which is what I’ve chosen to build this system around. I feel that at this price point you can get a better result from a decent stand mounted speaker rather than dilute any of the designer’s budget into trying to make a big cabinet actually sound any good. Also using a smaller speaker allows for more flexibility in placement, as it’s generally easier to get a small speaker to sound good in most rooms. Of course we always ask our customers about their rooms to ensure a satisfactory outcome.

The iQ3 was very popular in the listening test a couple of issues ago, and was in fact most of the participant’s speaker of choice from the selection available. The iQ3 uses Kef’s uni-Q driver arrangement where the tweeter is mounted where the dust cap would normally be on the woofer. This creates a ‘point-source’ type of configuration, which is always going to allow for a more natural representation of actual instruments and works particularly well with acoustic music. As stated in the listening panel review, the Kef’s look a lot more expensive than they are, the quality of finish of these products is fantastic.

A speaker of this size is never going to plumb subterranean depths in the bass department, but what is there is articulate and rhythmic. A bookshelf speaker should never (or should that be hardly ever) be put on a bookshelf, and I would recommend the use of a pair of the great Sound Creations speaker stands.

The electronics to go with these great little speakers are the new Denon PMA-700 Integrated amp and the matching DCD-700 CD player. These beasties are part of the new releases that show Denon takes two channel seriously. They are also made in Japan, not China, which may count for something these days! The cost to performance ratio is crazy with these two machines.

The amp puts out 50 watts into the Kef’s 8 ohm load, which is more than sufficient. This output doubles to 100 watts into 4 ohms, which indicates a robust power supply. It is laden with features that are fairly typical of most amps at this price, defeatable tone controls, A-B speaker switching and a headphone socket. Around the back there are plenty of inputs to keep most people happy, including a nice MM phono stage. Interestingly it also sports a pair of pre-outs, from which you could hook up a subwoofer if you were so inclined. Nice to have the option though.

I always find that a really good budget component makes you forget about what it cost and lets you get on with enjoying the music, and this is exactly what the Denon does. It just gets out of the way, and you can’t ask much more than that. This amp provides powerful, accurate musical performances that really highlight what a bargain it is.

The matching CD player is no slouch either. The sounds from this machine are what I would call expansive, and it amazing to realise the level of performance you can get from a relatively modest product these days. Interestingly the player has a pitch control, which can be useful if playing along with live instruments. Also included is a headphone out with its own volume, and of course the standard digital outs via coaxial and toslink connections.

Finally I would recommend a Project Debut 3 turntable. The Debut is amazing value for money. It’s remarkable how many people are getting back into vinyl, and with a phono stage as good as the Denon’s is, it would be a waste not to take advantage of it. We actually get more requests for turntables than CD players by a country mile!

Hook everything together with the excellent Audioquest cables, (and for this system I would recommend biwiring the speakers with Type 8 and a King Cobra interconnect) and you’re away laughing.

This system is amazingly good for the money, it excels with all genres of music, but really shines with acoustic stuff, like Chris Isaak, Norah Jones and simple classical recordings.

Its almost as if no one told this system that its supposed to be a budget one!—Neil Young

Denon DCD-700	$849
Denon PMA-700	$899
Project Debut 3	$499
Kef iQ3	$899
AudioQuest King Cobra 0.5m	$179
AudioQuest Type 8 5x$40/m plus terminations	$320
Total	$3645

The Listening Post, Hamilton

The key to putting together any musically satisfying system at $4000 is balancing your compromises. The simple, and I guess obvious truth, is that at $4000, what ever you buy is going to have limitations. The trick is to choose a combination of equipment whose compromises are in the areas that are least important to you.

For some people that means putting together a system that can’t do deep bass, but sounds magical through the midrange. For another person, it could be choosing a system that can rearrange your internal organs, but which might not let you hear exactly what the second violins are doing during the last movement of Beethoven’s Ninth.

Obviously in the space we have we can’t cover all the bases, so the system we’re recommending is one which consistently impresses us with its ability to sound “real”. “Real” means that instrumental and vocal textures sound like what we hear live. “Real” means that it has adequate authority and speed in the bass to handle a variety of music, not just chamber, acoustic or small ensemble jazz. “Real” means you can suspend your disbelief and imagine you’re at the performance. “Real” means you get the musical message, and feel the emotion of the performer. No mean feat for $4000 if you ask us.

We’re going to start with the Cambridge Audio 640C V2 CD player. This little honey is smooth, sweet, and remarkable engaging for $2000. Now the bit we really love is its $999. In the words of What Hi Fi? Sound and Vision “..if we could give a product six stars, then these CD players would get them.”

The matching Cambridge Audio 640A V2 amplifier is a natural partner for the 640c V2 CD player, and has that same smooth, rich presentation. This multi award-winning amplifier is also $999, and like its disc spinning cousin, is a little ripper.

When it comes to speakers, the Jamo E875’s open, detailed, and more natural presentation are a wonderful compliment to the body and warmth provided by the Cambridge Audio electronics. We know Jamo will be replacing these in the next quarter, so you can pick up a pair of these at $1495 till the new model arrives. This is $500 under their retail price of $1995. We don’t know what the new model will be like yet, but we can tell you that E875’s are something very special for $1495. Two of The Listening Post team run this series of speaker in their own home systems. I can think of no higher recommendation than that.

That leaves us $500 for good Analysis Plus interconnects and speaker cables to ensure the electronics and speakers can deliver their best. Once again, we’ve chosen Analysis Plus for their very neutral, natural, and honest presentation.

The end result is a system whose compromises very rarely get in the way of the musical message. It’s a system which presents musical textures and timbres in a natural fashion, allowing you relate to a performance, not just listen to a hi-fi. We think that’s pretty cool for $4000.— Romesh Anandaraja

Cambridge Audio 640C V2	$999
Cambridge Audio 640A V2	$999
Jamo E875	$1495
Analysis Plus interconnects

http://www.audioenz.co.nz/2007/systems_4k.shtml

Meridian 506 CD player

Meridian 506 CD player. $3200 in 1994

Re-published in conjunction with a review of the 506's replacement, the Meridian 507, this review first appeared in the February 1994 issue of AudioVideo (an earlier name for AudioEnz).

I remember the time I first came across Meridian. The long-deceased Hutt Hi-Fi store in Lower Hutt had just taken shipment of their first Meridian stock: a pair of speakers and a preamp.

The speakers were unusual, very narrow and with power amplifiers built into the cabinet! The preamp was very small and a dark chocolate brown colour, with two (or was it three?) switches and a volume knob. What a strange company I thought.

This feeling wasn’t helped by subsequent products. Their first CD players were raved about by some audiophiles, yet to me they sounded very similar to the Philips players they were based on, and lacking information compared to my fave-rave top Sonys.

Last year, when Lloyd Macomber reviewed the Meridian 206B, I came to appreciate the Meridian approach. Sure, that model, with its bolted box construction and simply weird ergonomics, still seemed a little strange. But there was a greater sense of human beings being involved in creating the music than with my player. I found the 206B both beguiling and intoxicating.

So to the 506 CD player, a member of Meridian’s new 500-Series of components. I get the feeling that this time Meridian have got almost everything right.

Take, as an example, the appearance. A midi-width component, the 506 ($3200) to me looks substantially better than the 200-Series components. Beautifully finished in dark grey, the top panel in reflective (see the front cover). It has sometimes been said that Meridian are courting the potential Bang & Olufsen buyer, while offering higher sound quality. With the 506 CD player, they look like succeeding.

The front panel offers the normal play, pause, next track etc, controls. To move forward or back within a track, you have to use the remote control… or would if one were supplied.

It seems astonishing to me that a $3200 CD player can come without a remote. One Meridian dealer tells me that it hasn’t bothered his 506 customers. But if you are bothered by it, a remote control that works a Philips, or a Philips-based CD player, will drive the 506. A call to Philips spare parts suggests that one could be yours for a little over $100.

On the rear are the normal RCA output sockets, plus coaxial and digital out.

Gone are the annoying ergonomics – the simply weird way the controls worked – of the 200-series. And although track changes are not as lightening quick as some Japanese players, I’m finding the 1.5 second delay just right for me – maybe I’m getting old!

But enough of this prattling on, I hear you cry. Tell us: what did the 506 sound like?

Many CD players have a touch of the ‘artificials’ about them. They create a synthetic quality to the music they’re trying to reproduce.

The 506 CD player doesn’t sound like that. It has what I described earlier as a ‘human quality’ to the reproduction of the music – as if there were real people behind the music instead of a machine. Let me give you an example.

One of my favourite albums is Joni Mitchell’s 1971 release, Blue. I have played this album through countless compact disc players and many systems. Sometimes, the hi-fi components make it sound as if it were background noise, something that can easily be ignored. When the hi-fi components are good, it can sound as if Joni was singing and playing directly to you and only for you.

That is how it sounded through the Meridian. The expressiveness of her voice, the way she phrased both her vocals and her gorgeous piano playing. She was singing to me, telling me of her thoughts.

And it happened again and again, with the wide varieties of music I listen to.

You want more? Well, okay. The 506 sounds super-smooth – there’s none of that annoying brightness (or more correctly, glare) that can afflict even some very expensive CD players. But this smoothness is not at the expense of detail retrieval or dynamics. This is no sweet and mushy player.

The only real sonic reservation is a minor one: the 506 hasn’t the last ounce of bass weight that seems to come from electronics with a hefty power supply.

I have nothing but praise for the Meridian 506. This is a player that will give long-term satisfaction, and reward the music lover.

Right of reply

I remember the first time I net Michael O'Jones, 'twas in the June of 1986. He was not deceased but he was not moving all that quick. He was a little unusual and a lot narrower than he is now. He proceeded to bore Peter (Plinius) Thomson and myself with his plans to publish a NZ audio magazine - by Zounds he did.

Although changes are not as lightening quick as Enid Blyton's children's books, the old rag has come a long way over the past eight years. Perhaps in the not too distant future we may even see Jonsey purchase another CD or two.

http://www.audioenz.co.nz/2003/archive_meridian_506.shtml

Method of simulating personal individual art instruction

Abstract

A method of simulating individualized art instruction is provided. The method utilize a CD compact disc playable on a CD-I compact disc player hooked up to a television. Each edition of a compact disc showcases a well-known instructor and background information. The actual instructor does the voice over, giving instructions at each step. Next, a substantially perfectly lit image appears; this image is a view of the object of study (i.e., the model, the still life, the landscape). Then, a completed painting of said object appears, the completed painting having been executed by the instructor. The screens contain step-by-step images of different stages of completion. At each screen, the instructor talks about what he or she is doing and why. The instructor can relate the actual colors and fundamental techniques used. By having a simulated method of individualized art instruction, the student is free to avoid the use of electronic keyboards and video display screens for creating a piece of computer generated artwork. In contrast, the method allows the student to create a painting by using traditional tools of the trade, such as paint, paintbrushes, a canvas and an easel, while accessing a simulated art lessons on a video display screen.


Other References

• Publication entitled "Videodiscovery", Fall 1993 --Multimedia for Education by Videodiscovery, Inc.
• Publication entitled "Media Max --The Multimedia Manager for Macintosh Computers", reference manual by Videodiscovery, Inc., 1993.
• Bio Sci II Elementary Edition, 1991, Videodiscovery, Inc.
• Videodiscovery document entitled "Science Discovery --Image and Activity Bank, Middle School Lessons", 1993, Videodiscovery, Inc.
• "Industry News", Electronic Learning Magazine, Apr. 1993, EduQuest Introduces Education Computers and Optical Data Receives Two Patents.
• Macuser Magazine, `Dec. 1988, "Video Disc-O-Tech", pp. 209, 210, 222, 214, 216, 218 and 230.
• Pioneer Corporation, "LaserBarcode System Guide Book", 1989, pp. 1-24.
• Laser Disc Corporation, 1988, "Demo Version", by Hisashi Hoda.
• Pioneer Electronic Corporation, Edition 2.0, Dec. 1986, Edition 1.2 Mar. 1987, Edition 2.0 Sep. 1991, Revised Jul. 1992, "LaserBarCode Format", Appendix 1.
• Merrill Publishing Company, 1991, "The Dynamics of Life", Teacher Edition, p. T31.
• Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc. 1991, "Biology Today", p. 1.
• Prentice-Hall, 1991, "Correlation of Optical Data's Life Science/Biology, Videodiscs to Biology", p. 2.
• Optical Data Corporation, Third Edition, 1990, "The Living Textbook -Earth Science".
• Alpine School District Board of Education, 1991, "trACE User's Guide", pp. 1-13.
• Sinnett and Edwards, "Authoring Systems: The Key to Widespread Use of Interactive Videodisc Technology", 1984 publication Library High Tech Magazine, pp. 39-50.
• Hannafin, Michael J. "Options for Authoring Instructional Interactive Video", Journal of Computer-Based Instruction, Summer 1994, vol. 11, No. 3, pp. 98-100.
• Pogue, Richard E. "Authoring Systems: The Key to Lesson Development", Journal Educational Technology Systems, vol. 12(2), 1984-85, pp. 75-81.
• The Wall Street Journal, Nov. 13, 1990, "Texas Approves a Textbook on Videodisks" by Michael Allen.
• Electronic Learning, Sep. 1991, vol. 11, No. 1 "Windows on Science Second in Dollars in Texas Adoption" by Theresa Wageau.
• The New York Times, Sep. 12, 1990, "Videodisk Joining the Book in Class" by Michel Marriott.
• The Round Rock Leader, Jun. 20, 1991, "Teachers Close Book on Old Method by Using Videodisk" by Kevin Wishard.
• Business Journal of New Jersey Magazine, Aug. 1991, "OD TV" by C. Poteavich.
• The Houston Post, , Aug. 22, 1990, "Textbook Panel Endorses Use of Videodisks", by Kevin Herman.
• The Wall Street Journal, Jun. 20, 1991, "Videodisk Curriculum Orders in Texas Exceed $12 Million".
• U.S. News and World Report, Nov. 26, 1990, "Introducing TV Textbooks".
• Data InfoTrac Magazine Index Plus, Jun. 1994, "Kodak Photo CD Portfolio (Image Processing Software)", abstract only.
• "Painting/drawing", CorelDraw Corp. Dec. 1992, abstract only.
• Rinker, Harry L. "Warman's Americana & Collectibles" 2nd Edition, Warman Publishing Co., Winky Dink game, p. 498, 1986.
• Schneider, Cy, "Children's Television", NTC Business Books, copyright 1987, pp. 203-204.
• Terrace, Vincent, "Fifty Years of Television, A Guide to Series and Pilots", Copyright 1991, Cornwall Books, p. 798.
• Von Buelow and Paulissen, "Photo CD Book", copyright 1994, Abacus.
• The New York Times, Section 2, Aug. 7, 1994, "The Pixels and Perils of Getting Art on Line" by Phil Petton.
• Morgan, James, "Video Resolutions", Artist's Magazine, Jan. 1995.
• "Kodak.RTM. Photo CD Media", advertising brochure for Kodak.RTM. photo CD-ROM multimedia presentation system, 1993.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5513991.html

Portable entertainment media display and demo stand

Abstract

A low-cost lightweight portable display and listening stand is configured to display, demonstrate and sell media such as music compact disks (CDs) particularly at general retail outlets and directly by musicians to attendees of live performances and other public events. A bottom compartment accommodates a CD player that is set up to drive a headphone set that is made available to a user. An open bin located above the bottom compartment holds a small quantity of CDs packaged in individual "jewel-box" cases. A vertical panel, extending upwardly from a rear region of the open bin, provides display of sales literature or display of product, e.g. one of the packaged CDs, and provides a hanger for the headphone set. The display rack can be made integral or can be assembled from two or more component portions that can be separated and that can nest together for convenient storage, transportation or shipping. A two-portion version can be fabricated from an identical pair of readily available molded plastic container bins.


http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6813771.html

Vending machine

Abstract

A machine for vending articles of merchandise such as compact discs, cassette tapes, video tapes, books and the like, the machine including an enclosed cabinet with a front door having a window to permit viewing of an interior thereof. The interior of the cabinet is provided with racks for supporting and organizing the articles of merchandise in rows with a front article in each row arranged in a preferred viewing orientation relative to the window. A compact disc player and disc exchanger is further supported within the interior of the cabinet and interconnected with controls and headphones on the front door, the compact disc player being adapted to play various selected recordings on at least one disc contained therein, the selected recordings corresponding with the articles of merchandise supported on the racks. Controls on the front door being further structured to release a selected one of the articles of merchandise, upon depositing a predetermined amount of money in the machine, whereupon the article is dropped into a catch bin for retrieval by the consumer.


http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5415319.html

Attaching articles to bed railings

bstract

An article adapted to be releasably attached to a bed railing, the article having a housing defining an opening for slidingly receiving a portion of the railing, when the housing is mounted on the railing. The article also has a first pawl movably connected to the housing and arranged to be moved from a retaining position, in which the pawl is adapted to block the opening to prevent removal of the railing from the opening, to a release position to enable removal of the article from the railing member. Further, the article has a spring connected to the housing and bearing against the pawl to bias the pawl towards its retaining position with respect to the housing.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6658678.html

Sound, light and storage system

Abstract

A sound, light and storage system which includes a sound and light module that may be placed adjacent to a bed, couch or other furniture. Various speakers and lights are provided on the sound and light module. The speakers may be connected to various entertainment or other equipment including televisions, video players, compact disk (CD) players, digital video disk (DVD) players, radios, computers and/or stereo systems, for example. The lights, as well as the speakers or the entertainment or other equipment to which the speakers are connected, may be wired to a control panel provided on the sound and light module to enable a person lying or sitting on the bed or couch convenient control of the lights, speakers and/or equipment. Alternatively or in addition, the lights, speakers and/or equipment may be connected to a remote control module and/or wireless control device. The sound and light module may be provided adjacent to a storage module which is provided adjacent to the bed and may be used to store various articles or support a video, CD player, DVD player, telephone or a radio or stereo system, for example, for convenient access by a person lying on the bed. The bed may include a bed and storage unit which may be fitted with drawers for the storage of various articles beneath the bed.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6984057.html

Tundra drops CD Player, adds recycled wire instead

Over the last few days, a couple of articles have caught my eye. The first describes a new kind of wire coating that has debuted on the new Toyota Tundra. The second article reports that Toyota is considering reducing features in the new Tundra in order to be more cost-competitive with the domestics. Seems like the problem is obvious to me…

First, the new wire coating. Developed by Delphi, the new wire coating has a thickness equivalent to two (2) pieces of paper. The material being used isn’t the standard PVC, but a new material derived mostly from recycled plastic. The big benefit to this new material is that it requires much less of it to sufficiently coat a wire, reducing the size and weight of the wiring in the vehicle. Also, because it’s created from recycled plastics, it’s better for the environment. Pretty slick stuff.

Knowing Toyota, this is probably a change they’ll make to all of their vehicles over the next few years. Toyota is committed to making the best vehicle on the road, and this new material will help both reduce weight and help the environment. You can read the Delphi press release for more info.

As for the second article, the words “jaw-dropping” come to mind. A little background: for years, we’ve read about domestic auto manufacturers removing standard features from their vehicles in order to cut costs. Manufacturers call it a “product realignment”, but what that really means is that the same vehicle is going to have less equipment than it did before but still cost the same. This practice was so wide-spread in the late 90’s that it received the moniker “decontenting”.

Imagine my shock when I read that the leading automotive company in the world, Toyota, was considering re-evaluating the standard options in the new Tundra. The VP of Operations for Toyota USA was quoted as saying “Unfortunately, we may have put a little too much content into it.” What the hell is going on??

The Toyota Tundra has so many nice features standard that it really gives it a leg up on the competition. The stability control system, the limited-slip differential, the 4.10 gears, the side curtain airbags, and even the CD player were all listed as “extra” equipment that might be eliminated. Who’d want to buy a truck without any of these options?

Fleet buyers. They don’t care about equipment, just the bottom line. So, because Toyota is having to offer rebates to move their lower-end trucks (which they’re building in order to hit 200k units this year), they’re thinking about reducing the standard equipment to lower their costs. This sounds EXACTLY like Detroit to me.

Build too many vehicles, offer rebates when they’re not selling fast enough, and then start to reduce equipment to get the money back.

Here’s a question…What if you took the space-age wire covering off the all the wires and just used good old PVC? How much would that save?

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/04/03/space-age-wire-coatings-and-decontenting-on-the-new-tundra/

Hands-on Review: SanDisk Sansa Shaker

SanDisk has made an MP3 player for 'tweens, and it's darn cute. Better yet, it works pretty well, and holds the interest of the mid-range 'tween (age 10) in my house.

She was skeptical at first when she turned on the Sansa Shaker and heard songs like "Wheels on the Bus" and "Three Blind Mice" already on the SD card that comes with it. "It's for little kids," she said. When I told her she can add her own songs, her interest was rekindled. She likes the hourglass shape and the deep blue color. (It also comes in hot pink, not this 10-year-old's favorite.)

She went to Yahoo! Music Unlimited to find some of her favorite tracks. But we quickly realized that the Sansa Shaker does not support WMA music files; it only supports MP3 or WAV files. So it became a teachable moment to learn how to convert some of her favorite tracks from her CDs to MP3 files to transfer to the Shaker. (See my next post.)

The best way to transfer music to the Shaker is to use the USB cable that connects the Shaker to your PC. After using Windows Media Player to rip some of my tween's favorite songs from her CD's to MP3 files onto the PC, we simply clicked on the files she wanted on the portable player from our PC's My Music folder onto the Shaker's SD card drive.

So if you're thinking about an MP3 player for your 'tween, the Sansa Shaker is a good choice for a portable music beginner. One of the main reasons is the price: At $40, it's half the price of an iPod shuffle, the smallest of Apple's portable music players. Even with the shuffle's fun colors, the Shaker may appeal more in appearance to 'tweens, too. One fun feature (and the source of its name) is you can change songs by holding down the on/off button and giving the player a shake. Two white bands, one at the top to move forward or backward on the playlist, the other at the bottom to turn volume up and down, make it extremely simple to use.

One drawback is you can't use iTunes (obviously, since it's not an Apple player) or another online music store like Yahoo! Music Unlimited. So it means converting songs to MP3 files to transfer to the player if your 'tween is on the older end of the 'tween spectrum. Also, the player automatically shuffles songs, and there's no way to see the playlist.

A nice feature is the speaker: kids can listen to music together without sharing earbuds. And the sound is pretty good, better than expected. But my daughter and I both agreed the earbuds that come with the Shaker seem big for 'tween ears.

SanDisk has made a good MP3 player for a good price for kids who are just figuring out what music they like. It's worth a look.

http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/devlin/11101;_ylt=Aqde_5XATxuIaQeDXQck0q4SLpA5

Put Together a Digital Photo Slideshow

Photoshop Album is a popular, inexpensive software package that amateur photographers use to manage, print, and share their digital photos. The program provides one-stop shopping for the most popular photo management functions - everything from storing photos to emailing them. Photoshop Album even links to a selection of editing software packages, such as Adobe Photoshop, that you might have installed on your computer, and then allows you to click once on a picture and launch the editing package with the picture preloaded.

The Transition options are the type of dissolve, fade, or other effect you want to use to move from one slide to the next. You can attach any music file on your computer (for example, a track downloaded as an MP3 file or taken from your favorite CD).

1. Choose Slideshow --> Creations --> Album to display the Slideshow Creation Wizard.

The slideshow menu button is located on the tool menu below the menu bar at the top of the screen.

You can include video clips in a slideshow. The video prints the first frame of the video if you choose to print the slideshow on paper.

2. Select the slideshow style you want to create and click Next.

Photoshop Album comes with a number of attractive slideshow types. Click each style to view the example on the right-hand side to make your decision.

3. Choose the layout of your slideshow in Step 3 of the wizard and then click Next.

Enter the following information, as shown in Figure 1:

• Type the information you want to appear on the title and subsequent pages of your slideshow.

• Select the number of slides to show per page and whether you want captions to show.

• Select any music and transition options you desire.

The Transition options are the type of dissolve, fade, or other effect you want to use to move from one slide to the next. You can attach any music file on your computer (for example, a track downloaded as an MP3 file or taken from your favorite CD).

Figure 1: Set up your slideshow.

4. Select the photos you want to include in your slideshow and arrange them in the proper order, and click Next.

5. Preview your slideshow; keep clicking Next until you reach the end of the preview.

6. Choose the format in which you want to publish your slideshow.

The Output Options are:

• Save as PDF: Creates an Adobe Acrobat Reader eBook or PDF file.

• Print: Prints a hardcopy of your slideshow.

• Email: Creates a PDF file and sends your slideshow to someone by email.

• Burn: Burns a CD-ROM or DVD of your slideshow that plays on a DVD player attached to a TV.

next_to_icon

• Both DVD and video CDs are viewable on a standard DVD player hooked up to a TV set. In most cases, a standard video CD is just as good as a DVD (although with less space) and you can make one on a CD burner even it you don't have DVD burning capability.

• Order Online: Orders a printed version from an online printing service.

7. After you publish your slideshow, click Done.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/put-together-a-digital-photo-slideshow/153043;_ylt=AqmjhXQiTWI_cVBDMS_05FwSLpA5

Windows XP DVD-ROM Drive Headaches: I receive a region error message when I try to use the DVD player.

Cause DVD players function by regions, because many DVDs are imprinted with a code that controls which geographical region they can be played in. To make sure your DVD is using the correct region, see the following Pain Killer.

The Pain Killer To make sure your DVD drive is using the correct region, follow these steps:

1. Click Start | Control Panel | System. These steps assume you are using the Classic view of Control Panel, which shows you all the icon options. If you are not sure you are using the Classic view of Control Panel, click Start | Control Panel. In the left window pane, click the Switch to Classic View option.
2. Click the Hardware tab and click the Device Manager button.
3. Expand the DVD/CD-ROM Drives category. Right-click the icon for your DVD player, and then click Properties.
4. On the DVD Region tab, the current region is displayed. Click a geographic area in the list and look in the New Region field to see the region code of the geographic area you need to use to change the currently configured code. Click OK when you are done.
5. A message appears asking, “Are you sure you want to change your DVD drive region setting to region x?” Click OK.

If you cannot change the code, then your DVD does not support other regions. The only solution is to purchase a DVD-ROM drive for the region in which you now reside.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/windows-xp-dvd-rom-drive-headaches-i-receive-a-region-error-message-when-i-try-to-use-the-dvd-player-/3348;_ylt=AmFh.xnOdsvXOkokUUXwuFgSLpA5

Understanding the Difference Between DVD-RW, DVD+RW, and DVD-RAM

In the video world, the DVD-ROM disc is quickly overtaking the traditional VHS tape. The DVD-ROM disc is also poised to take over the reign of CD as the media of choice for virtually every new computer on the planet. But what about recordable DVDs?

Unfortunately, things are still a little tenuous in the world of recordable DVD standards. Luckily, the competing formats correspond pretty closely to the world of recordable CDs. Here are a few acronyms you need to know:

* DVD-RW: DVD-R is short for DVD-recordable. (Note the dash before the R; it's pretty important.) Like your old friend the CD-R disc, a DVD-R disc can be recorded only once. However, the DVD-R can hold a whopping 4.7GB per side of the disc, for a total of 9.4GB of data on a double-sided disc. DVD-R is the darling of the video-editing crowd, because it allows you to record a disc that you can use in a standard DVD player. Naturally, the DVDs that you create with a DVD-R drive can't be read on a standard CD-ROM drive (but you can burn regular CD-R and CD-RW discs).

On the rewritable side, the DVD-R disc format is called DVD-RW. These discs can also store 4.7GB, and you format them much like you format a CD-RW disc. Any DVD-ROM drive should be able to read a DVD-RW disc. Unfortunately, not all DVD players can read DVD-RWs, so if you're an up-and-coming Hollywood type that's interested in producing your own movie discs, you should stick with the DVD-R standard (which is compatible with all DVD players).

Pick DVD-R/W if you're looking for the highest level of compatibility with all DVD-ROM drives or you're distributing discs to others.

* DVD+R/W: The other independent DVD standard, DVD+R/W, is widely available as well. This more recent format is being touted by an entirely different group of computer hardware manufacturers. DVD+R discs and DVD+RW discs can store 4.7GB, and a DVD-ROM player can read both types of discs. Again, however, you run into the same problem - DVD+R discs are compatible with most DVD players, but DVD+RW discs aren't widely supported by DVD players. Plus, DVD-R/W and DVD+R/W are incompatible.

Pick DVD+R/W if you're looking for compatibility with the latest DVD-ROM drives or you want to spend a little less on media.

* DVD-RAM: Finally, you have good old DVD-RAM - a rewritable disc that can store as much as 9.4GB of data by using both sides. (A double-sided DVD doesn't have a standard label; printing can appear only around the spindle hole.)

DVD-RAM is well established, and no "plus" format is competing for fame and fortune. DVD-RAM is a great option for storing those huge digital video files, and because DVD-RAM discs are reusable, they're the best media for backing up hard drives. Note, however, that most DVD-ROM players can't read DVD-RAM discs, so use one of the other DVD formats if you're recording something to distribute to others.

Choose DVD-RAM if compatibility with DVD-ROM drives is not an issue, such as when you're creating backups or discs that you read only on your computer, and you want to rewrite the largest amount of data on an existing disc.

You may be wondering whether you need a rewritable DVD-R/W drive, a DVD+R/W one, or a DVD-RAM model? Why not get all three? Unless you've been hanging out with the good folks at the lottery commission, that's probably not an option. You can, however, find many drives on the market that can use both DVD-R/W and DVD+R/W.

However, the good news is that the relative strengths of all three types of recordable DVD media make it easy to decide which one you need. Check out Table 1 for the scoop.

Table 1 Will DVD-R/W, DVD+R/W, or DVD-RAM Escort You to the Ball?

Media Type Can Be Read in Reusable/Rewritable? Media Cost DVD Players

DVD-R Almost always No $2 per disc (4.7GB)

DVD+R Almost always No $2 per disc (4.7GB)

DVD-RW Usually not Yes $4 per disc (4.7GB)

DVD+RW Usually not Yes $3 per disc (4.7GB)

DVD-RAM Usually not Yes $15 per disc (4.7-9.4GB)

Although DVD-R and DVD-RW are separate categories in the table, it's getting harder and harder to find a drive that records only DVD-R - and the same holds true for DVD+R/W. This trend mirrors the development of CD-RW technology. Try finding a drive that burns only CD-Rs these days!

Besides being incredibly informative, Table 1 uses the words almost and usually, which don't show up in many definitive tables. Why? The answer lies not in today's recorders, but rather in yesterday's DVD-ROM players: Four distinct generations of DVD-ROM players have existed since their introduction in late 1997, and each succeeding generation has a better chance of reading DVD-Rs, DVD+Rs, and DVD-RAMs.

The result is a big question mark. Because of the wide disparity in manufacturers, it's hard to tell whether the DVD-ROM player you have now reads any type of burned disc. If you're using a DVD+R or DVD-RAM, you have the best chance with a DVD-ROM player manufactured since early 2001. If you're using DVD-R, you have the best chance with a DVD-ROM player made after late 1999. You can, however, read a commercially manufactured DVD-ROM movie disc in either type of recorder.

If your DVD recorder is limited to one format or the other, take care when you're buying DVD media! Make sure that you remember which type of discs your recorder can burn - you'll be deluged by the choices on store shelves, and it's easy to mistake DVD-R discs for DVD+R discs if you're not careful.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/understanding-the-difference-between-dvd-rw-dvd-rw-and-dvd-ram/153155;_ylt=AmSUZQrdRR4apib0Dfw15ssSLpA5

How to Rip CD Tracks to MP3 files

Okay, so this is a post for the true digital music beginner. But when I sat down with my 10-year-old to transfer some of her favorite songs onto the SanDisk Sansa Shaker portable music player designed for 'tweens, I realized lots of kids (and their parents) are ripping CD songs to MP3 files for the first time at some point. There are several music formats and not all play on every portable music player. So there are times when you want to turn an AAC (Apple) or a WMA (Window) file into a universal MP3 or WAV file to play on different players.

There are a few ways to do it, but the most popular are through Apple's iTunes or Microsoft's Windows Media Player. We used Windows Media Player. Here's how:

1. Open Windows Media Player and make sure you have the most up-to-date version.

2. Go to the "Rip" tab. Click on the arrow and choose your format. We chose MP3. Then choose the bit rate; 128Kbps is often recommended, but I had to go to 192Kbps to have a successful rip. When you click on "more options," you'll see the format and bit choices here, too. You'll also see the path which sends your music files to your PC. The default is your My Music folder, but if you want the files to go somewhere else, click the change button and choose a new path. Here you can also click on "File Name" to make sure the information you want about each track is included in your music files.

3. Stay on the "Rip" tab and insert the CD. (In the previous step, you change settings to always or never automatically rip a CD when it is inserted. If you only want to rip a few tracks, only check those tracks.) The rip will begin automatically. Or if the settings are manual, click on the "Start Rip" button on the bottom ride hand of the screen.

4. Click on "Library" to see your tracks "ripped to library," and in the My Music folder on your PC to find them there.

In iTunes (on a PC):

1. Open iTunes. Go to "File," and click "Preferences." Under the "Advanced" tab, you'll see the path in which your music files will be stored on your PC. Again, the default is the My Music folder. Click the "Change" button if you want to change it.

2. On the second row of tabs, click "Importing." Here you'll be able to set whether you want to be asked to Import a CD or to automatically rip it. Go to "Import Using" and choose whether you want an AAC, MP3, or WAV setting. "Create file names with track number," "Automatically retrieve CD track names from Internet," and "Play songs while importing or converting" were checked on my page, but you can change those preferences or also check "Use error correction when reading Audio CDs" if you're working with an old or scratched CD. Click OK when your preferences are set.

3. Insert your CD. The album track names and information should appear if you've checked the right boxes in the previous step. You can check only the tracks you want to import or all of them.

4. Click the Import button and import your CD tracks in the format of your choice.

For a more detailed guide, check out these instructions written by our own Ben Patterson for Cnet. The Windows Media Player and iTunes versions he detailed may be different, but the gist of his excellent advice is the same, and the screenshots are helpful.

http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/devlin/11105;_ylt=Anc_7.KqnKO3P6uIuc6taUkSLpA5

Finding Things on Your PC's Console

The console, that main box that really is your computer system, doesn't stand alone. Into the console you plug every other gizmo that you use as part of the computer system. To accommodate them, the console has many, many holes into which those things plug. Not only that, the console has doors and slots so that you can access important things inside the console directly. The console has interesting buttons to press and switches to throw.

• Try to find on your own PC the things mentioned here. Get to know their locations as well as their official computer names.

• Not every console is the same. Use this information as a general guide.

Points of interest on the front of the console

The front of the console is where you interact with the computer system directly, by adding or removing disks, observing lights, punching buttons, and perhaps even plugging in one or two special items.

Use Figure 1 as your reference as you go hunting for the following items:

Figure 1: Things to note on the front of the console.

CD-ROM or DVD drive: Like a music or video player, your computer digests CDs and DVDs through a slot or tray on the front of the console. Some computers may have a dual CD/DVD drive, and others may have one of each.

Future expansion: Some spots on the console's nose may look like they're CD-ROM or disk drives, but they're not! They're simply blanks that cover holes - holes you can use for adding things to your computer someday.

Floppy drive: This slot eats floppy disks. Some software comes on floppy disks, and you can use these disks to move files from one PC to another. Not every PC sold today comes with a floppy drive; they are becoming obsolete.

Air vents: Most consoles sport some type of air vent on the front. Don't block the air vents with books or sticky notes! The thing's gotta breathe.

The secret panel. Some PCs, especially home models, have a secret panel or door that pops open. Behind it, you can find connectors for joysticks, microphones, headphones, or other handy items you may need to plug and unplug from time to time. Having the secret panel is handier than having to reach around behind the computer and fumble for plugs and holes.

Buttons and lights: Most of a computer's buttons are on the keyboard. A few of the more important ones are on the console, and these buttons on fancier PCs are accompanied by many impressive tiny lights. These buttons and lights include the following:

• Power button: It's no longer a plain on-off button - it's the power button, and it can do more than just turn the computer off or on.

• Reset button: Rare, but still found on some computers is a button that forces the computer into a restart during times of woe. Consider it a plus if your PC has such a button.

• Sleep button: This rare button is designed specifically to put the computer into a coma and suspend all activity without turning the computer off. On some PCs, this button and the power button are the same.

• Disk drive lights: These lights flash when the hard drive, floppy drive, or CD-ROM drive is working. On a hard drive, the light is your reassurance that it's alive and happy and doing its job. On all other types of drives (with removable disks), the light indicates that the computer is using the drive.

Things of note on the back of the console

The console's backside is its busy side. That's where you find various connectors for the many other devices in your computer system: a place to plug in the monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers, and just about anything else that came in the box with the PC.

Power connector: This thing is where the PC plugs into a cord that plugs into the wall.

Fan: Air gets sucked in here, blows around inside the console to keep things cool, and then puffs out the vents.

Voltage switch: Use this item to switch power frequencies to match the specifications for your country or region.

Expansion slots: These slots are available for adding new components on expansion cards to the console and expanding your PC's hardware. Any connectors on the expansion cards appear in this area, such as the audio and video connectors on a DVD expansion card.

Vents: The breathing thing again.

I/O panel: Aside from the power cord, and anything attached to an expansion card, the rest of your PC's expansion options and plug-in type things are located in a central area.

ttp://tech.yahoo.com/gd/finding-things-on-your-pc-s-console/152971;_ylt=Ap9ZEEK52oWQ8r0vTCkIXrMSLpA5

Is DRM Over?

Who knew the drop-DRM movement would move so fast. Ever since Steve Jobs's big statement this week on dropping digital rights management from iTunes-purchased songs, music companies and European governments have been reacting in all manner of ways.

Yesterday, most European governments accused Jobs of trying to shift the focus from Apple's DRM conflicts with some continental governments to the record companies. And today, Warner Music CEO Edgar Bronfman said that the home of the Red Hot Chili Peppers and Josh Groban would not drop copy protection.

Despite these protests, DRM's days may still be numbered: EMI, the home of Janet Jackson, the White Stripes, and The Beatles, is seriously considering dropping DRM altogether. Given the recent Beatles hints that Steve Jobs has made of late, could this mean that Apple and iTunes will offer the online debut of the Beatles long-guarded catalog without copyright protection? Seems insane and ironic, but if EMI is up for it....

Okay, so DRM doesn't stop piracy, but I still don't know what completely copy-able MP3s are going to do to stop piracy, either. It's not like I want the record companies to get their way or anything, but don't they help at least some deserving artists get a shot at the big time and maybe even paid? How are artists going to get paid when their MP3s can be copied ad infinitum? What exactly is EMI's financial plan here?

And as I've said before, what's so hard about burning some iTunes-purchased tracks onto a CD, then re-ripping the CD into MP3s that‘ll work on any player, anyway? It still makes a better copy in the end than anything we could have ever put on a cassette tape, for anyone who can remember.

Meanwhile, let's talk about iTunes-purchase video, which you can't even burn to a DVD, much less play on non-iPods.

Here's a quick poll: Would you pay money for non-DRM MP3s from iTunes when you can just copy them from your friend?

http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/samiljan/4453;_ylt=AhSNoV5SRFxe7Zd3gIMY.nwSLpA5

How to Play iTunes Songs on Non-iPods

A reader writes: I just got a Samsung K5 for my birthday, but I bought almost all the tunes on my desktop on iTunes. How can I play the songs I bought on iTunes on the Samsung K5?

Though the answer to this question has been covered before—see Gina's link-tastic post from earlier this year—it bears repeating, if only to break the stranglehold that iPod and iTunes have on digital music.

The good news is that it's completely possible to (eventually) play your iTune-purchased tracks on a non-iPod player. The bad news is that it's a hassle and has some drawbacks.

But first the good news. Since the iTunes tracks in their purchased form will only play on iPods or in iTunes, you'll need to burn these tracks onto a CD using iTunes. Then you need to re-rip the tunes off the CD as MP3 files, either in iTunes or another music player. Since MP3 files have no restrictions, they'll easily transfer to a Samsung K5 or any other player, including your iPod!

And here's the bad news: Converting these tunes to MP3 will likely erase the song ID and album data, so you may well have to manually re-enter song titles. Annoying! And if you have more than 100 songs you want to convert, it'll be a pain to burn the dozens and dozens of CDs you'll need to make the switch. This method is good if you just want to move over a few songs onto a second player.

FYI, there are also some illegal alternatives for stripping the DRM off of iTunes-purchased tunes and subscription-service tunes, but I do not partake in or condone the practice for obvious reasons, so 'nuff said about that.

iTunes-purchased songs aside, there's also the matter of iTunes tracks you've ripped from your own CD collection. Regardless of the music software I'm using, I always rip all my CDs into MP3 format, which will play on just about any player. iTunes usually rips songs into AAC format by default, so make sure you switch the default for "Importing Music" to MP3 (it's in the Edit, Preferences, Advanced, then Importing menu). AAC files will play on some other players, but MP3s will play in pretty much all other players.

Lastly, consider buying tunes at eMusic, which only sells music in MP3 format.

Happy ripping, burning, and transferring!

http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/samiljan/2752;_ylt=At2Abo7upJOY88YF7zexQu8SLpA5

Recording Songs from Albums

Albums may be a joy for listening, but they're a pain to store. Plus, you always worry about when it's time to change the needle. Playing any rare singles? Don't they deteriorate each time they're played?

Converting albums to MP3 combats these problems and adds an advantage: Because the sounds originated from an album, the MP3 still holds some of that warm vinyl feel - none of that sterile CD feeling. Any of today's portable MP3 players will easily hold a full album - some, like Apple's iPod mini, can store 1,000 songs.

Most all-in-one MP3 ripping software records albums and converts them to MP3s on the fly, but that skips the WAV stage. Without this intermediate stage, you have no way to remove any recording flaws before the final encoding.

These steps show how to record songs from an album and save them as WAV files (where you can touch them up before turning them into MP3s):

1. Clean the album.

The cleaner the album, the cleaner the sound. Try these cleaning tips:

• Wash both sides of the album with a lint-free cloth. Most music stores sell record-cleaning brushes designed expressly for removing dust.

• To remove extra-stubborn goo from the grooves, try a mixture of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and distilled water. Lacking that, small amounts of baby shampoo can do the trick. Be sure to rinse well.

• Always wash the record with a circular motion; don't scrub "across grain" because it might scratch the grooves. When you finish cleaning, dry the album and touch it only by the edges.

• If it's an important album - a rare import, or an old 78 - check the phone directory for professional record-cleaning services found in many big cities. They can often remove any extra-persistent grunge from the vinyl.

2. Clean the turntable's needle.

Wipe it off with the little brush that comes with the turntable. Lost yours? Pick one up at the music or stereo store. They're cheap.

3. Connect the turntable's output cables to your sound card.

4. Adjust your recording level.

Your recording program will have a recording monitor display, which flashes according to the incoming volume levels.

Start playing your album and watch the monitor. If it flashes too close to the right end (or the red), turn down the volume going into the sound card, or use the sound card's mixer program to turn down the incoming sound.

If the level's too high, it will distort; if it's too low, you'll hear background noise. Take your time to find the right level before recording. Be patient.

5. Start the recording software.

Begin recording using Adobe Audition, Roxio Capture, or another recording-and-editing package.

6. Play the album.

Be sure to press the Record button on your recording software before playing the album. Don't worry about the initial plop when the needle falls onto the record or the empty space before the first song. You can easily edit out those sounds later.

As you convert album songs into WAV files, keep the following points in mind:

* Hear a persistent humming sound in the background? Plug your turntable into the "unswitched AC adapter" on your receiver or amplifier. If you can't find the unswitched adapter, try plugging your computer and turntable into the same wall outlet. (Use an adapter, if needed.) The two devices then share a common ground.

* Remember to record at a level that's very close to the 0 on the recording level - but never too close. Otherwise, the recording won't sound loud compared to others, like MP3s created from CDs.

* Recording an old mono album? You might only hear the sound on one speaker. You can correct this with sound-editing software.

* Record the entire album's first side and save that as a single WAV file. Then do the same with the flip side. You can easily separate the tracks into separate files later with sound-editing software.

* In the eyes of the law, converting albums to MP3 files isn't any different from copying CDs. You can keep the file for your own personal use, but don't give it away or sell it, or you might be violating copyrights.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/recording-songs-from-albums/153231;_ylt=ArqQGtiLnVGbRCbb4mQv9IoSLpA5

Convert Music to MP3s

Maybe you want to archive tape recordings of your grandfather's poetry, or burn a CD of an old record album, or you want to listen to a Grateful Dead bootleg on your MP3 player.

Doesn't matter why, but you want to digitize a cassette or record. Digitizing is the process of taking an analog signal (a song on cassette or LP) and turning it into a computer file. It sounds complicated, but with a little time and money, it can be done.

Speaking of time and money
If you want to skip the do-it-yourself process, there are services and local freelancers who can do this for you. Digitizing charges start at $10 a tape and can go as high as $50-$100 per cassette or LP. Using a service like Craigslist.org you can search for "digitize cassette tapes" to find someone local. You can also use online services like BuiltByMom.com or Cassettes2cds.com.

One tip: If you send your tapes or records off to be digitized, make a tape copy if you can. God forbid your only copies get lost in the mail or the company goes out of business.

Now back to doing it yourself.

What you'll need:

• a computer (Mac or PC) with an audio input (more on that in a second)

• a cassette player or turntable

• a preamp if you are converting records

• a cable to connect the computer to the audio source

• software to record the incoming audio to your computer

Audio Inputs on your computer
Almost all computers come with some sort of a mini-jack audio input. This should be near one of the headphone or speaker jacks. It may say "line-in" or have some sort of symbol that implies audio coming in. Most likely you will be down on all fours with a flashlight in your mouth trying to figure out which jack is the line-in. It will probably come down to trial and error once you get everything else hooked up. I've been there my friend, I've been there.

Audio Outputs from Your Player
Your cassette or record player will probably have a line-out or headphone jack you can use to export music. Line-out is optimal, headphone jack is fine.

Preamp
If you are converting records to digital files, you will want to use a preamp. The short explanation is that it boosts the audio levels to something worth listening to. Preamps are not too expensive ($30) and you can find them online easily. AudioReplay.net is one site that sells a decent preamp for $29.

Cables
Once you figure out what your input and output options are, you need to get a cable to connect the two. You can order these cables online, but if you are the least bit unsure about your connection, head down to your local Radio Shack or electronics store. I'm prone to taking digital pictures of my inputs or taking the device itself down to the store; less margin for error.

Software
In order to actually take the signal from your cassette or LP and translate it into a computer file, you need a piece of software to do the job. Before you spend any money, check to see if your computer came bundled with any software that can record audio. My PC came with a copy of Windows Movie Maker. It does the trick, and I didn't have to spend any extra money. Many Macs come with Garage Band and iMovie which can also import audio.

You can also buy specialized audio software or download free software online. I like Audacity from Sound Forge.

Recording
Once you have all the components, it's pretty straightforward. You connect the tape or record/preamp to the audio input (line-in) on your computer. Open the audio or recording software on your computer. Select the source (line-in), then hit record. Hit play on the tape player or drop the needle on the record player.

You can save your recorded audio as MP3, WAV, or AIFF files depending on how you will be using them. To record onto CD, save them as WAV or AIFF. For portable music players, save them as MP3s.

Best of luck, and may your musical memories be digitally preserved forever.

http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/worley/85;_ylt=AqcISFYlJBaFs.Kx6fvqQtQSLpA5

How to Choose a CD Player for Your Vehicle

So you have finally decided to switch out that factory tape deck and join the rest of us using CD's or you are just ready to upgrade your current CD player. This is a big decision, as many of us spend a lot of time in our cars these days.
Don't be afraid though, because picking out a CD player isn't really too hard once you know something about the features that are offered. After going to Installer Institute and becoming MECP certified I will help you figure out the different features that are offered.

Brand

A lot of people have brands that they prefer and they can't even tell you why. They may have had good luck with one in the past or heard good things about the brand. Most of the brands currently on the market are really high quality and two of the most highly respected are Alpine and Pioneer. Just be wary of anything that offers a lot of extra features for a lower price. That can be a sign of a less than superb CD player.

Wattage

A lot of people think that the wattage will directly translate into loud music that sounds great. While the watts are a big factor in this there is more to the story. Listed on the box of a CD player, there will be peak wattage and RMS wattage. Basically you can forget the peak wattage because that is how many watts it will put out in just a few seconds. The real wattage to look at is the RMS wattage, also called continuous wattage. This is what the stereo has the ability to put out over the length of the playing time. Some CD players will have higher RMS wattages than others and that can definitely mean that your stereo will be louder.

What types of discs will it play?

You may want your new stereo to be able to play CD-R or CD-RW discs. These are CDs that you have burned at home. Also you may want it to play MP3 files. With MP3's you can fit a whole lot more songs on a disc, but the sound quality might be slightly lower. These features will be very important if you make your own CDs or have an interest in doing this at a later time.

Audio Tuning Features

A lot of CD players now include equalizers and crossovers built right in. Basically an equalizer is used to adjust the levels of different frequencies within the music. This is used to emphasize or reduce the lows, mids, or highs of the music. A crossover is used to cut off certain frequencies from going to the speakers. This would be good if you have a subwoofer in the vehicle because you wouldn't need the speakers to play the low frequencies. These are great if you enjoy fine tuning the music to your liking. All CD players currently on the market include bass and treble controls.

Expandability

These features are very important in today's car audio field. Not too many people install just a CD player anymore. Lots of people are hooking up amplifiers, MP3 players, satellite radio, CD changers, Bluetooth and more.
If you are interested in hooking up any of these devices at a later date be sure that the CD player has the capabilities to add these.

Further Research

There are many other features that different CD players will include. Some will include a remote control or have a detachable face. Just make sure that you ask for help when you go to purchase a CD player at the store. The sales associates are there to answer any questions you may have. There are also great sites on the web where you can compare different CD players or look up additional information. The main thing to remember is to take your time with the purchase and ask lots of questions. Once you find one you are happy with the extra work will be well worth it.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/269754/how_to_choose_a_cd_player_for_your.html

Review: Pioneer DEH-P9800BT In-dash CD Player

One of the hottest new items to hit the car stereo market is the Pioneer DEH-P9800BT in-dash cd player. This unit is so extraordinary that it is flying off the shelves as fast as it comes in. The suggested price is $550.00 for this item and it is loaded with so many features that it is an incredible value.

It will play MP3, WMA, and even iTunes songs with no problem at all. There is also Bluetooth Wireless Technology for hands free calling built right in! The full color customizable display will make it unique to your car. Let's view a few other features in greater detail.

Another great feature of this cd player is that it has a built in auxillary jack which makes it capable of connecting any type of digital audio player, such as an MP3 player. This is a great option because so many of us today have hundreds or thousands of songs downloaded to these audio players. This makes for an easy hookup as the jack connector is directly on the front of the unit. If you have an iPod brand MP3 player it gets even better because you can directly control your iPod through the controls of the cd player.

This stereo is also Satellite Radio ready. You can sign up for XM or Sirius service, both of which are great options. All you would need to do is purchase a satellite radio tuner for whichever service you decide to go with. Pioneer sells a tuner for each and the suggested price for either of them is $100, and that includes an antenna. This is a great option and once you sign up for satellite radio you won't want to be without it.

With a peak power rating of 50 watts x 4 channels and a continuous power rating of 22 watts x 4 channels this unit will bring some serious sound to your speakers. It has equalizer presets and a three way crossover to fine tune the sound to your liking. There are also three RCA preouts to hook up a four channel amplifier or a subwoofer amplifier. Anyone who wants to add to there system will love these features.

This cd player is just loaded with options and is great if you are interested in all the latest technologies available. You will receive tons of features and great sound quality when you purchase this unit. It comes highly recommended from all the top installers and you won't be dissappointed with all it has to offer.


http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/233860/review_pioneer_dehp9800bt_indash_cd.html

Adding a Recorder or Tape Drive to Your PC

CD/DVD recorders and backup tape drives have been around for years now, but only with the advent of USB and FireWire have they become attractive to the PC power user as external devices. That's because in years past, hardware manufacturers had to depend on the PC's parallel port to connect these peripherals. The PC's parallel port was never designed for high-speed data transfer, so parallel port drives were slow.

However, today's FireWire and USB 2.0 drives are almost as blazing fast as their internal brethren! Therefore, as long as you have a USB or FireWire port, you have the option of sticking it in your machine or leaving it outside. It'll work like a charm either way.

Tape backup drives are beginning to disappear from the PC landscape because today's recordable DVD formats can hold 4.7GB (or 8.5GB for a dual-layer drive) on a single disc - and DVD recorders are faster and more reliable than most tape drives. Therefore, before you invest in a hideously expensive Digital Audio Tape (DAT) backup drive, consider buying a (comparatively) inexpensive rewriteable DVD drive instead and use that for your backups.
Types of CD/DVD recordable drives

Some CD and DVD drives are designed to not only read from the discs but also create them. The type of CD drive that can create CDs is called CD-R or, often, CD-R/RW. The letters R and RW represent the two recordable CD formats.

On the DVD side, the drive names get weird because there are many recordable DVD formats. The two most popular, however, are DVD-R and DVD+R. The DVD+R format is much faster than DVD-R, but not as compatible.

* The drive must say CD-R/RW or DVD-R or +R for it to be a recordable drive. Plain old CD and DVD drives cannot be used to create CDs or DVDs.

* You can get a combination CD/DVD drive that can record to both disk formats. It's often called the SuperDrive, though it's really just a combination CD-R/RW and DVD-R (or +R) drive. You can easily add an external USB version of the drive to your PC.

* Sony makes a versatile DVD drive that can record to multiple DVD formats. It can also record to CDs.

About the speed rating (the X number)

CDs have speed ratings measured in X. The number before the X indicates how much faster the drive is than the original PC CD-ROM drive (which plays as fast as a musical CD player). So, a 32X value means that it's 32 times faster than the original PC CD-ROM drive.

A recordable CD-R/RW drive has three Xs in its rating:

* The first is the drive's write speed, or how fast a CD-R can be written to.

* The second X is how fast the drive can rewrite to a CD-RW.

* The final X indicates how fast the drive can be read from.

High write and read speeds on a CD drive are especially important if you plan on importing lots of music discs. The higher the speed, the less time it takes the computer to read all the music from the drive.
Which drive is which?

Upon inspection, it's not exactly clear which disk drive could be the CD and which is the DVD. You have to look closely.

* CD drives usually have the CD logo on them. If it's a recordable drive, it also has the word Recordable and maybe even RW.

* DVD drives have the DVD logo on them. If you don't see the DVD logo, the drive is a CD-ROM drive.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/adding-a-recorder-or-tape-drive-to-your-pc/2469;_ylt=Au9_JR7aA2o97m6UD3F5jZcSLpA5

Knowing the Mac OS X Troubleshooting Process

When you turn on your Mac, the first thing that it does (after the hardware tests) is to check for a startup disk with Mac OS 9 or X on it. If your system doesn't find such a disk on your internal hard drive, it begins looking elsewhere - on a FireWire or Universal Serial Bus (USB) disk or on a CD or DVD.

If your Mac can't find your hard drive (or doesn't find on it what it needs to boot OS X), you encounter a flashing-question-mark icon or the prohibitory sign.

If you encounter any of these warning icons, go through the following steps in the order listed, starting with Step 1. Then, if one doesn't work, move on to the next.
Step 1: Run First Aid

In most cases, after you've booted successfully from the OS X CD, the first logical troubleshooting step is to use the First Aid option in the Disk Utility application.

Every drive has several strangely named components such as B-trees, extent files, catalog files, and other creatively named invisible files. They're all involved in managing the data on your drives. Disk Utility's First Aid feature checks all those files and repairs the damaged ones.

Here's how to make First Aid do its thing:

1. Boot from your Mac OS X CD by inserting the CD and restarting your Mac while holding down the C key.

The OS X Installer appears on your screen.

2. Choose Installer --> Open Disk Utility to launch the Disk Utility application that's on the CD.

3. When the Disk Utility window appears, click the First Aid tab to select that function of Disk Utility.

4. Click the icon for your boot hard drive at the left of the Disk Utility window.

Your boot drive is the one with OS X and your Home folder on it.

5. Click the Repair Disk button.

Your Mac whirs and hums for a few minutes, and the results window tells you what's going on. Ultimately, First Aid tells you (you hope) that the drive has been repaired and is now okay. If so, go back to work.

6. Quit Disk Utility by choosing Disk Utility --> Quit Disk Utility or by pressing Command+Q.

7. Reboot without holding the C key down.

If First Aid finds damage that it can't fix, a commercial disk-recovery tool may be able to repair the damage.

If everything checks out with First Aid, eject the CD and try to boot from your hard drive again.
Step 2: Safe Boot into Safe Mode

Booting your Mac in Safe Mode may help you resolve your startup issue by not loading non-essential (and non-OS X) software at boot time. You do it by holding down the Shift key during startup.

Keep holding down Shift until the Finder loads completely. If your Mac is set up so that you don't have to log in, keep pressing the Shift key until the Finder loads completely. If you do log in to your Mac, type your password as usual, but before clicking the Log In button, press the Shift key again and hold it until the Finder loads completely.

You'll know you held the Shift key long enough if your Startup Items don't load (assuming that you have Startup Items; you can create them in the Accounts System Preference pane, although some programs create them for you).

Booting in Safe Mode does three things to help you with troubleshooting:

* It forces a directory check of the startup (boot) volume.

* It loads only required kernel extensions (some of the items in /System/Library/Extensions).

* It runs only Apple-installed startup items (some of the items in /Library/Startup Items and /System/Library/Startup items). Note that the startup items in the Library folders are different from the Startup Items in the Accounts System Preference pane.

Taken together, normally these changes can work around issues caused by software or directory damage on the startup volume.

Some features, such as DVD Player, do not work in Safe Mode. Use Safe Mode only if you need to troubleshoot a startup issue.

If your Mac boots in Safe Mode, you may be able to determine what is causing it - usually a damaged Preference file (in Home/Library/Preferences) or one of your Startup Items (in the Accounts System Preference pane).
Step 3: Zapping the PRAM

Sometimes your parameter RAM (PRAM) becomes scrambled and needs to be reset. PRAM is a small piece of memory that's not erased or forgotten when you shut down; it keeps track of things such as printer selection, sound level, and monitor settings.

PRAM stores these settings:

* Time zone setting

* Startup volume choice

* Speaker volume

* Recent kernel panic information, if any

DVD region setting

To reset your PRAM, restart your Mac and press Command+Option+P+R until your Mac restarts itself. You may see the flashing question mark or spinning-disk cursor - then the icon disappears, and your Mac chimes again and restarts. Most power users believe you should zap it more than once. Now restart your Mac without holding down any keys.

Remember that your chosen startup disk, time zone, and sound volume are reset to their default values when you zap your PRAM. So after zapping, open the System Preferences application to reselect your usual boot disk and time zone and set the sound volume the way you like it.
Step 4: Reinstalling OS X

Reinstalling the system software last takes the longest and is the biggest hassle. If you're still unsuccessful, you'll have no choice but to consider Step 5.
Step 5: Take your Mac in for repair

If none of these suggestions work for you and you're still seeing anything you shouldn't when you start up your Mac, you have big trouble.

You may have any one of the following problems:

* Your hard drive is dead.

* You have some other type of hardware failure.

* All your startup disks and your system-software CDs are defective (unlikely).

The bottom line: If you still can't start up normally after trying all the cures here, you almost certainly need to have your Mac serviced by a qualified technician.


http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/knowing-the-mac-os-x-troubleshooting-process/153414;_ylt=ApsRCnZQLxa4M9_rkH6GSosSLpA5